North Bay Business Journal’s annual Women in Wine Awards celebrate the achievements and contributions of female winemakers and wine industry professionals in the North Bay. This is the second year for this event with nominations in categories that include: Impactful Leader, Rising Star, and Excellence in Sustainability.

"I am honored to celebrate the extraordinary contributions of women in the wine industry through our Women in Wine Awards 2024,“ said Lorez Bailey, North Bay Business Journal publisher. ” This event not only highlights their remarkable achievements but also inspires the next generation of female leaders in wine. We are thrilled to host this prestigious event at the historic MacMurray Ranch, providing a beautiful backdrop to honor these exceptional women who have made indelible marks on the wine world.”

Award winners were selected by a panel of judges and assessed by their excellence in wine growing achievements, leadership, and career impact. They will be honored at a networking and awards event June 6 at MacMurray Ranch in Healdsburg.

Inspirational Leader Award: Honoring a trailblazing woman within the wine industry who not only excels in her role but also serves as a source of motivation and empowerment to others.

– Rachel Ashley, senior vice president of supply, Treasury Wine Estates

– Anisya Thomas Fritz, proprietor, Lynmar Estate Winery

– Leslie Frank, co-founder, Frank Family Vineyards

Excellence in Winemaking Award: Recognizing a female winemaker who has demonstrated exceptional skills, innovation, and consistency in producing high-quality wines.

– Jessica Koga, winemaker, Schramsberg Vineyards

– Maggie Kruse, head winemaker, Jordan Vineyard & Winery

– Akiko Freeman, co-owner and winemaker, Freeman Vineyard & Winery

Rising Star Award: Awarding a promising newcomer who has already shown remarkable potential and early accomplishments in any area of the wine industry.

– Melissa Smith, owner, Enotrias

Excellence in Sustainability Award: Recognizing a woman who has made significant strides in promoting and implementing sustainable and environmentally responsible practices within the wine industry.

– Sarah Wuethrich, winemaker, Maggy Hawk and WindRacer

– Chris Kajani, president and winemaker, Bouchaine Vineyards

Trailblazer Award: Celebrating a woman’s pioneering spirit, groundbreaking contributions, and forward-thinking innovations that have pushed the boundaries of winemaking, viticulture, or the wine business. It honors the role of a visionary driving positive change and setting new standards within the wine world.

– Philana Bouvier, president, Demeine Estates

– MJ Dale, CEO, Customer Vineyard

Impactful Leader Award: Recognizing a woman who has significantly influenced and positively transformed her field. Through her actions, innovations, and dedication, she has left a lasting mark on the industry and inspired others to drive meaningful change.

– Lauren Wong, vice president of sales and marketing, Aperture Cellars

– Jessica Limon, senior manager of trade and consumer hospitality, E. & J. Gallo Winery

– Violet Grgich, president and CEO, Grgich Hills Estate Winery

Heart of the Community Award: Celebrating a woman who has made significant contributions to her local wine community through advocacy, events, and outreach.

– Drea Helfer, president, DH Wine Compliance

– Linda Mayberry-Chavez, CEO, Chavez Family Cellars

Excellence in Winegrowing Award: Recognizing those who demonstrate exceptional skill, innovation, and dedication in wine growing, celebrating their expertise and commitment to cultivating the finest quality grapes.

– Karin Warnelius-Miller, proprietor, winegrape grower and winemaker, Garden Creek Ranch Vineyards & Winery

Legacy Award: This distinguished award honors a woman whose enduring contributions and lifelong dedication to the wine industry have left an indelible legacy. Through her leadership, vision, and unwavering commitment, she has shaped the industry's future, paving the way for future generations of women in wine.

– Kimberlee Nicholls, winemaker, Markham Vineyards

– Linda Trotta, vice president for global winemaking and sourcing at WX Brands, winemaker at Bread & Butter Wines

To purchase tickets: Get tickets here.

Translated from Danish via Google Translate.

For many years, Sonoma Coast has been one of my favorite appellations – or AVA, as it is called in those parts. And those edges are California, after all. I remember on a wine trip one fairly early morning driving up through a mountain area on my way out to one of the legends, David Hirsch, who was among the first to discover this rather unique climate. On the way up, we drove through a very peculiar forest with a lot of green growth hanging from the trees - it looked like something from Lord of the Rings. We just waited for either orcs or dwarves to tumble out of the forest floor. The growths obviously come from the high humidity on the outer edge of northern California – a consequence of the meeting between the always cold Pacific Ocean and the sun-warmed inland. Therefore, almost every morning there is a dense fog until well into the morning. And there we have one of the reasons why you can make airy, almost ethereal wines in the area. Especially pinot noir, but also chardonnay and eventually syrah. The cool climate with cold nights and mornings and a life-giving sun when we come to the day. On a sunny day in May, there was a presentation of the AVA and a wide range of wines from some of the best producers in Copenhagen.

THE SONOMA COAST IS GREAT

The AVA Sonoma Coast is actually very large and extends into the clearly warmer Russian River Valley – and of course also out to the coast with the cool climate. Until two years ago. Because 15 years of footwork succeeded in convincing the authorities that it did not make sense to have such a large AVA, but that the special coastal climate should have its own sub-AVA. And it is logically called the West Sonoma Coast. It contains the fields that have made the Sonoma Coast something special - and in my view is what you look for when you choose a wine from the (West) Sonoma Coast.

The first fields were planted a little over 50 years ago and quite a few fields and producers have come over the last 20-25 years. It is quite understandable as the temperature in, for example, Napa Valley and the lack of rainfall challenge the possibilities of landing balanced wine - to put it mildly! But the coastal area has both sufficiently low temperatures and rainfall for the wines to have lightness, nicely low alcohol, good acidity and juicy fruit. The first pioneers in the area were discouraged from starting to grow wine by UC Davis several years ago. They became wiser at UC….

Sonoma Coast has 4 times as much rain as London and 2 times as much as Seattle. But not very much rain during the growing season, which is good. The Pacific Ocean is always 11 degrees on those sides and thus a significant stabilizing factor. In addition to the morning fog, a cold wind often blows in the afternoon, so the sun never burns the grapes. Overall, there are good conditions for organic cultivation and a great many are also organic and some are on the way to biodynamics - although only a few show this on the labels. An overall conclusion is that the threatening climate changes have not had the same impact on the Sonoma Coast, but it was mentioned that the flowering time now varies much more than before, without any obvious explanation for this.

The vast majority of producers are family-owned with dedicated owners who want to challenge the expensive Burgundies. However, some of the larger players are coming into the area, but it is limited how much you can expand the cultivated areas, as much simply cannot be cultivated. Speaking of expensive Burgundies: the Sonoma Coast wines are not cheap either - expect approx. DKK 400-500 for entry level and up to around DKK 1,000+ for the most expensive single fields. But a good Burgundy producer quickly takes away 1,000-2,000 kroner for a premier cru. So there is something to save - although I would think that you get more for your money in Oregon. However, you don't get the very special airiness that the Sonoma Coast has.

TASTING

There were wines from 7 of the better producers for tasting in Copenhagen. Ernest Vineyards has no Danish importer – Laudrup Vin has two: Cobb and Littorai, Wayfarer is sold by Uhrskov Vine and Fine Wines . Fine Wines also has Peay, Senses is sold by Vestergaard Wines and finally Freeman is sold by DH Wines . I would have liked to see Hirsch as well, but not everything could be included.

The focus was on pinot noir, but there were also several fine chardonnays. In general, the level was as expected high and the wines were fresh, acidic, airy and elegant. Freeman was perhaps the richest style, while Littorai and Peay represented the coolness and lightness most. Aromatically, we were in pinot noir in the light, red berries such as raspberries and strawberries – both light and slightly darker. The character on the barrel was moderate – most people dose the barrel discreetly, which is wise so as not to overpower the pure fruit. There was nice acidity in almost all wines that were from 2021. They already taste nice now and will be hard to keep away from, but most have nice aging potential. The production of the individual wines is a few thousand bottles, but there are both entry level and single field wines, so overall the production is larger. But they remain niche wines with a certain exclusivity, which the prices somewhat suggest. But it's a cheap way to get chambolle-like wine!

Freeman is sold in Denmark by DH Wines
Cobb is sold in Denmark by Laudrup Vin

Crafting elegant expressions of Pinot Noir that speak of the multifaceted terroirs of the West Sonoma Coast, Ken and Akiko Freeman have sought to achieve the purest expression of fruit on their different vineyard sites.

Ken and Akiko Freeman are the husband and wife behind the family-owned estate on the dynamic West Sonoma Coast. As the winemaker, Akiko’s role is to translate the climatic extremes of their dynamic coastal terroir into nuance and subtlety in their Pinot Noir.

Founded in 2001, Freeman’s winemaking has always aimed to produce elegant wines, eschewing ripeness for grace and sophistication. Akiko worked alongside consulting winemaker Ed Kurtzman before taking on the winemaking herself  with the 2009 vintage. Akiko now works alongside Eiji Daniel Akaboshi, her associate winemaker, making for an all-Japanese winemaking team at Freeman. The two share a culture and approach to winemaking, and Brazilian-born Akaboshi has deep family roots in the Sonoma region. He is an ancestor of one of the region’s founding winemakers, Kanaye Nagasawa, who made wine in the area over 120 years ago.

Pursuit of elegance

Having grown up in Tokyo, Akiko’s upbringing has influenced her pursuit of elegance in the wines she has made since the beginning. When the winery launched in 2001, it immediately leaned into a more refined style. While Sonoma County Pinot Noir and Chardonnay styles have since evolved towards finer, more delicate wines, that was not the predominant trend in California in the early 2000s.

‘When we first started,’ says Ken Freeman, ‘the style, particularly of Chardonnay, was about opulence and oak. The bigger the wine, the bigger the scores. Our early wines were more restrained and with less oak from the beginning.’ The initial markets for the Freeman wines were in fine dining, working to help chefs and sommeliers see the similarities between their cool Sonoma Coast wines and those of Burgundy.

‘Many wineries will use the term “neutral oak”, but we’re using six, seven, and eight-year-old barrels,’ Akiko says. The winery’s aim is to highlight the vineyard site and purity of fruit, often with minimal intervention winemaking, to allow for the truest expression of the different grape varieties.

Winemaker Akiko Freeman says the winery’s aim is to highlight the vineyard site and purity of fruit, often with minimal intervention winemaking.

Commitment to a sense of place

The Freeman Pinot Noirs come from two separate estate sites. The Gloria Estate Vineyard is where the family home and winery are located, whilst the Yu-Ki Vineyard is further out on the rugged Sonoma Coast. State regulations and land preservation laws prevent timberlands from being cleared, so any new vineyard site must be planted on former farmland: Yu-Ki was a one-time sheep farm and Gloria a fruit orchard.

While both vineyards produce wonderful Pinot Noir today, the Gloria site has been an exercise in reclamation and recovery. Purchased in 2005, the 8-acre (3.5ha) site had seen substantial chemical usage during its time as an apple orchard. As a result, before planting could commence, the Freemans had to work on rebuilding soil health, a process that continues to this day.

‘We started with cover crops like clover and sweet peas to get nitrogen back into the soils’, says Akiko. The initial approach was to use tilling to tackle soil compaction and to help introduce more oxygen into the soil. However, upon understanding the impact this was having on microorganism habitats, the Freemans put an end to tilling in favour of planting daikon radishes. The roots of the radish help to break up compact layers of soil, without releasing carbon and destroying soil surface structure. ‘We planted about a million daikon in our vineyard,’ Akiko says.

The Freemans are farming both of their estate vineyards organically and are in the process of gaining certification. They use regenerative no-till practices, with plenty of cover crops, raptors for pest control, and minimising spraying unless absolutely necessary.

The Gloria Estate Vineyard in California’s Sonoma is where the Freeman’s family home and winery are located.

Pinot Noir as an expression of terroir

The Gloria Estate Vineyard is planted with six different clones of Pinot Noir in as many blocks. The clones include Swan, Pommard, 115  and two blocks of Calera clone Pinot Noir. Akiko uses only a small percentage of whole cluster (5-8%) in her winemaking and only after pressing. She uses a maximum of 30% new oak in a given vintage.

What the French call “terroir”—a sense of place speaking through the wine in a given glass—usually refers to climate and environment. A good example of this is the distinct whiff of eucalyptus in an Aussie shiraz or the unmistakable herbal garrigue found in Rhône wines. Sometimes, it’s the flinty minerality of chardonnay grown in Chablis’ limestone soils or the classic gritty dust of cabernets from the Rutherford Bench in Napa. But what about character? Can a wine be equally reflective of the person (or more accurately, people) who farm and produce it?

A recent tasting of some excellent West Sonoma wines showcased where climate and character may intersect. A cool-climate region with mediating influences from both the river and the ocean, the far Sonoma Coast and its sub-appellations like the Green River are exceptional places for both pinot noir and chardonnay. I’ve reviewed many, many wines from this region and visited often, but the wines being made at Freeman Vineyard and Winery made me sit up and take notice all over again. My tasting notes included words like “elegant, polished, multi-layered, evolving” and both the chardonnay and the pinot noir reflected a beautiful sense of balance—of subtly integrated fruit, acidity and alcohol.  “Just who is making these wines?!”  I thought. “They’re astonishingly good.”  

The answer revealed itself in person at a recent event at the Japanese Consul General’s home in Los Angeles where winemaker Akiko Freeman was honored with the historic Green & White Medal for Agricultural Excellence, the first woman to ever receive the prestigious award. Ms. Freeman, a Stanford graduate and a cousin to the former Empress MIchiko, has led a far more adventurous life than the one initially intended for her. A chance encounter with American businessman Ken Freeman encouraged her to abandon the arranged marriage that had been planned for her; like my own father, I would argue that Ken is also “not a fool,” and his persistence eventually won over Akiko’s grandfather and family.

As they approach 30 years of marriage, the Freemans’ eponymous winery continues to win accolades both here and abroad.  In honoring Ms. Freeman at the Medal Ceremony in LA, Shinkichki Koyama noted, “She’s worked very hard to achieve the best growing conditions on the property—irrigation, ensuring that the soil was well-drained and well-oxygenated—all with the long-term vision to produce better grapes under organic farming protocols.” While the history and impact of male Japanese farmers in California is well-documented, it was important to see Akiko’s pioneering work as a woman winemaker be recognized. In receiving the award, Akiko noted, “I’m glad people recognize me for what I’m doing—the wine world is so very male-dominated. And I hope because I got this award, it’s going to open the door and be an inspiration for young female winemakers. Like, if they hope to reach for a star, it can be done.”

Another affirming milestone for Freeman wines occurred at the White House in 2015; when Obama’s official Sommelier first inquired about serving Akiko’s chardonnay at a state dinner for then-Prime Minister Shinzo Abe, the winemaker wondered if it was a prank call. Her exceptional 2013 “Ryo-Fu” Chardonnay was featured at the dinner. More recently, Freeman wines were again poured at a State Department lunch honoring Prime Minister Fumio Kishida of Japan. Hosted by Vice-President Kamala Harris and attended by officials like Secretary of Transportation Pete Buttigieg and Secretary of State Anthony Blinken, the Freeman wines have become emblematic of the long and deep friendship between Japan and the United States, a true embodiment of east-meets-west.  

Like her wines, Akiko is polished and poised.  She is also a noted philanthropist and mentor to many in Sonoma County. If character can speak through a glass of wine, the inherent integrity of Akiko’s winemaking is only enhanced by the kind of person she is. Her wines and a visit to the gorgeous Freeman tasting room and guesthouse are a must for any serious fans of Sonoma wines.

Recommended Wines:

2022 “RYO-FU” CHARDONNAY (GREEN VALLEY OF THE RUSSIAN RIVER) SRP $49
“Ryo-Fu” is Japanese for “cool breeze” and this elegant chardonnay reflects the climate of the area beautifully. The grapes are sourced from the highly prized Heintz and Dutton Ranch vineyards. The wine presents with gorgeous stone fruit, marzipan and lemon curd aromas, framed with zesty acidity in the mid-palate.

2021 “AKIKO’S CUVÉE” PINOT NOIR (SONOMA COAST) SRP $85
This is Akiko’s flagship blend of pinot noir and it’s just gorgeous, like her. Aromatic notes of ripe cranberry, dried rose petals and lavender with beautifully polished, silken tannins and just enough oak vanillin to give structure.  Amazing pinot noir that will only develop to be even better over the next 10-15 years.

SEBASTOPOL, CALIFORNIA, April 16. 2024:    Wines made by Freeman Vineyard & Winery were featured at a State Department luncheon hosted by Secretary of State Antony Blinken and Vice President Kamala Harris on April 11, 2024. The luncheon was held in honor of Japanese Prime Minister Fumio Nishida, celebrating the close ties between Japan and the United States. 

“Learning that our wines were selected to be poured at this luncheon was a total surprise” said Akiko Freeman, winemaker and co-owner of the Sebastopol, California winery. “Even better, we were invited to attend! I was pleased that they selected 2020 Yu-Ki Estate Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine, the 2021 Ryo-Fu Chardonnay, and our 2021 Akiko’s Cuvée Pinot Noir to be served with the menu that Chef Larkin had created for the afternoon.

“Akiko and I were blessed to be a part of such a memorable day at the State Department” said proprietor and co-owner Ken Freeman. “Our country has an amazing relationship with Japan, and it feels great to know that we are contributing to that relationship in our small way. Being in the room with so many business and political leaders was inspiring, and this inside view of the camaraderie and shared vision of our countries for the future was thrilling, to say the least. 

The luncheon’s menu was conceived by Jason Larkin, Executive Chef of the State Department, with assistance from guest chef Masako Morishita of Maxwell Park in Washington, DC. The featured dishes included Asparagus Zucchini Pickles & Ricotta, Grilled Virginia Bass, followed by a Cherry Blossom Mousse with Coconut and Matcha Sponge Cake. 

Chef Larkin said, “I consider it a great honor to be in a position to select the wines for the Secretary’s official entertaining.”  Chef Larkin uses these events as an opportunity to showcase ties between the visiting country and the United States, with U.S. wines showcased at every event he puts together. “The Japanese heritage of Freeman Vineyards and the versatility of Akiko’s wines offered a broad palette of flavors and aromatics to work with” he says. “They allowed me to underscore some thematic and culinary ideas specific to this luncheon honoring Prime Minister Kishida — I like to think that Thomas Jefferson would be so proud that we are serving such wonderful American wines for diplomatic purposes.”

In addition to Ms. Harris and Mr. Blinken, Transportation Secretary Pete Buttigieg and other U.S. and Japanese government and business luminaries were in attendance.

Wines made by Freeman Vineyard & Winery are produced from organically farmed grapes grown in Sonoma County in Northern California. Akiko Freeman was recently awarded the Green & White Medal from the Dar Nihon Agriculture Society of Japan for her work in building bridges between the Japanese and American communities through her agricultural efforts. Using estate-grown grapes from their vineyards in the Russian River Valley and West Sonoma Coast AVAs, the winery has built a solid reputation for making balanced and elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Freeman wines can be enjoyed at fine restaurants and purchased from retailers around the world, as well as ordering direct via their wine club, “The Friends of Freeman.” 5% of all wine club revenue is donated to local, Sonoma County charities. Their Sebastopol tasting room is open year-round by appointment.

Freeman Vineyards & Winery

1300 Montgomery Rd, Sebastopol, CA 95472
707.823.6937

For further information, interviews, photographs, or samples of Freeman wine, please contact Dan Fredman, dan@danfredman.com, or 323.89.9463

Akiko Freeman and Secretary of State Antony Blinken at State Dept Luncheon in Honor 

of Japanese Prime Minister Fumio Nishida, April 11, 2024. 

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